On the southern side of Morocco’s High Atlas, two rivers have cut a pair of canyons through red and ochre rock: the Dades and the Todra. They sit about 50 km apart, and between them they hold some of the most photographed riding in North Africa: a stack of hairpins in the Dades and sheer 300-metre walls in the Todra.
Both are on the route of our best-loved tour, Atlas & Desert. Here is what each one is like from the saddle.
The Dades Gorge: Morocco’s famous hairpins
The Dades Gorge road climbs north from the town of Boumalne Dades towards M’semrir. The first stretch runs through a green valley of walnut trees, small fields and mud-brick kasbahs. Then the valley closes in and the road climbs a cliff face in a tight run of switchbacks near Tissadrine: the hairpins you have seen on posters and calendars.
On a motorcycle it is pure fun. The hairpins are short and well surfaced, and there is a café at the top where you can park, look back down at the road you have just ridden and watch the next group come up.
The rocks on the way in are worth slowing down for too. Wind and water have worn the cliffs into rounded, almost organic shapes that locals compare to fingers and brains.
The Todra Gorge: riding between the walls
The Todra Gorge starts at the oasis town of Tinghir, about 50 km east of Boumalne Dades. The road follows the river north through a long palm grove, then squeezes into the narrowest part of the canyon, where the walls rise around 300 metres and the gap between them shrinks to roughly 10 metres.
It is a short section, but riding through it is unforgettable: cool air, deep shade and the sound of your engine bouncing off the rock. Stop, switch off and look up.
Dades or Todra: which is better on a bike?
| Dades Gorge | Todra Gorge | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Hairpins and views | Sheer canyon walls |
| Riding | Twisty climb, switchbacks near Tissadrine | Gentle valley road, short narrow section |
| Nearest town | Boumalne Dades | Tinghir |
| Busy with tour buses | Less | More, near the narrowest point |
You do not have to choose. On our tours we ride both, usually on consecutive days.
Riding tips for the gorges
- Ride the Dades hairpins early. Morning light is better for photos and there is less traffic.
- Watch for pedestrians and parked cars in the Todra narrows. Visitors walk in the road there.
- Expect livestock and children in the villages, especially in the Dades valley.
- Look out for gravel and sand on corners after a storm. Flash floods can wash debris onto the road.
- Carry water. Even in spring the valleys get hot in the middle of the day.
How the gorges fit into a Morocco motorcycle tour
The gorges sit between the High Atlas and the Sahara, so they pair naturally with a night in the desert. On our Atlas & Desert tour (9 days, about 1,545 km), day 6 takes you from the Merzouga dunes through the Todra Gorge to a hotel at the foot of the Atlas. Day 7 starts with the Dades hairpins, then continues to Ouarzazate and the UNESCO kasbah of Aït Benhaddou.
For riders who want dirt, our Atlas Off-Road Adventure explores the Dades and Todra valleys on tracks before climbing to nearly 3,000 m.
| Tour | Length | Surface | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlas & Desert | 9 days, 7 riding days | 99% tarmac | €3,400 (€2,700 on your own bike) |
| Best of Morocco | 14 days, 11 riding days | Mostly tarmac | €5,700 |
| Atlas Off-Road Adventure | 8 days, 6 riding days | 70% challenging roads | €2,800 |
All tours start and end in Marrakech, with 4- and 5-star hotels, breakfast and dinner every night, a support car and a BMW Motorrad certified guide.
FAQ
Where are the Dades Gorge hairpins? On the road north of Boumalne Dades towards M’semrir, near the village of Tissadrine.
How far apart are the Dades and Todra gorges? About 50 km, between Boumalne Dades and Tinghir.
Do you need off-road experience to ride the gorges? No. Both gorge roads are tarmac. Our Atlas & Desert tour is 99% road.
What is the best time to ride the Dades and Todra gorges? September to May. Summer is very hot in the valleys and winter mornings can be cold.
Can I ride the gorges with a passenger? Yes. Pillions are welcome on our tarmac tours; the BMW R1250GS is the most comfortable two-up.
